Monday, December 31, 2007

牛肉吃不吃吃

这句话不是小孩学语.它有两种断句法:一, “牛肉吃不吃?”“吃!”. 二,牛肉:吃-不吃-吃. 这是表达我吃牛肉的过程.

2000年我离开沙巴公共工程局前,参加两次部门的官方晚宴,我的秘书费丽妲女士都特别为我安排素餐,引起同台朋友的好奇,问我是否素食,我挾了一块鸡肉塞进嘴去, 算是回答;也把素菜吃了.

我的瑜伽师父吃素,许多师兄也是. 瑜伽行者基本上是主张素食的。瑜伽行者把宇宙间性质分为Sattva, Rajas和Tamas三德. Sattva 是喜,乐,贪(能作光照),Rajas 是忧,苦,嗔(能作生起),Tamas 是暗,舍,痴(能作系缚)。表现在食物性质上,Sattvic 食物最纯,吃了身心平衡健康,它包括五谷,新鲜蔬菜,水果,奶,牛油,豆类,果仁,种子,蜜糖,豆芽等;Rajasic 食物具刺激性,令心身不平衡,它包括干的,酸的,苦的、辣的,咸的食物;Tamasic 食物对心身都有害.它包括肉类,酒精,烟,葱、蒜、醋、腌肉等。瑜伽行者吃素,是在吃sattvic食物,它有助修行。我们的瑜伽学会出版了几本讲素食的书,很有分量。有教人如何以渐进方式改吃素食的,有讲素食的健康的,有分析素食比荤食更经济的,有介绍健康素食食谱的,内容丰富,包含了古印度智慧与现代科学知识。

我四十余岁时曾经吃了肉边菜两个月。 有一天如厕,完工起身时,双脚乏力,站不起来。朋友骂我笨蛋,劝我多吃鱼肉. 果然有效.

小时家穷,吃得简单.我们住在乡下,自己种菜,养鸡,网鱼. 饭桌上常见的食物是白米饭,蔬菜,鱼肉及鸡蛋.鸡肉猪肉则农历初一十五才有.这简单的食物,营养也还可以.菜是自己种的,没有化学肥料,蛋是自己养的母鸡下的, 母鸡吃玉米,鱼多是同邻居买来的,顶新鲜,绝对没加防腐剂。.遇上农忙时,三餐外还有早茶与下午茶,喝的是咖啡或红茶,吃的是苏打饼,以维持全天劳动所需能量.

离家来亚庇念庇中时,寄宿在学校,天天喝骨头汤.这可能是我第一次尝到牛的滋味.不是牛肉,是牛骨汤,富于钙质,也许补骨.三年后,寄宿在沙白学院,开始吃到牛肉了.那是上世纪的六十年代,各族学生同住沙白学院的宿舍,每星期学生可以吃到一次牛肉与鸡肉,非回教徒也可享 一次猪肉。接着去了澳洲,住了四年.吃的是以牛肉,羊肉,鸡肉,猪肉和蔬菜为主.开始不会煮牛肉,总煮不软,越煮越硬.朋友教我用小苏打(碳酸氢钠),也不太见效,而又多了一层怪味.后来才知道牛肉是越煮越硬的,要急火快炒,才能炒出软滑可口的牛肉来.那时,午餐在大学食堂用,我较喜欢的一个菜式是匈牙利红烩牛肉(Hungarian Goulash),内有番茄,大辣椒,马铃薯及香料,香甜可口.

回到沙巴后,又少吃牛肉了.以前吃牛杂,后以其不健康,也渐渐少吃.倒是凯悦酒店(Hyatt Hotel)的牛尾汤(Ekor Asam Pedas),叫我喜爱.对食物,如果要走极端,在”为生而食”或”为食而生”必选其一,我宁可选”为生而食”.所以,我说不上有特别喜爱的食物.勉强要选一样,我会选牛尾汤.可在上世纪九十年代疯牛症在英国盛行时,我听了西方先生(Mr. West)的劝告,毅然放弃吃牛肉和羊肉.那时的说法是:吃牛肉会传染疯牛症.我不吃牛羊肉始于此,是出于健康卫生理由.

以后十多年,我没吃牛肉羊肉.官方餐宴如果由凯悦来承办, 差不多都少不了牛尾汤这一味菜.熟朋友见我不吃,有点奇怪.开始时自己也意志动摇,要刻意强忍. 可能因为我静坐,很快就意志坚强了,可以把牛尾布给太太而自己毫不受引诱.这时,疯牛症被控制,卫生已不是理由,而是在考验意志力了.当科学家初发现一个素食十几年,没吃牛肉十几年的人被传疯牛症时,大家都认为疯牛症的细菌能在人体潜伏十几年. 再过十几年,科学家发现疯牛症是人传牛,不是牛传人.既不是牛传人,就与吃牛肉无关了,疯牛症细菌能潜伏人体十几年的说法也不重要了.科学家的哲学训练未必严谨,也会时不时犯上思维错误的。

人们持健康理由而不吃牛肉主要是因为牛肉是红肉,高脂肪,高胆固醇,而不是怕被传疯牛症.我的胆固醇偏低,没此忧虑。 除健康理由外,不吃牛肉的主要理由是宗教.兴都教徒不吃牛肉,一些佛教徒,道教徒也因素食或吃斋而不吃牛肉.圣牛的观念可能起於牛在印度是耕田的主要动力或如母亲是奶的供应者,因而在圣典上被崇敬;兴都教徒不吃牛肉也有可能牛是宠物,牛代表一切动物,牛是地球的象征。北传佛教徒吃素,听说是受道教的影响;是佛教传入中国时受到本土文化的儒家和道家的同化所致。南传佛教徒是不讲究吃素的,他们沿门托钵,得到甚么就吃什么,以食维生,不分别计较是素是荤。据说,释迦牟尼佛是不主张吃素的,并和他的堂弟兼徒弟底瓦达塔作了辩论,记录在经里,不知是否有这事?另一个常听到的问题,是“你不吃牛肉是不是你拜观音?”。据说,拜观音的人不吃牛肉是因为观音的爸爸是牛。这就非我智慧所及了。观音是菩萨,菩萨是人,人的爸爸怎么会是牛呢?若说有前生而他的前生是牛,也难园其说。你怎知爸爸的前生不是猪,不是鸡,不是羊。。。呢?那我们岂不是不可以吃猪肉,鸡肉,羊肉了吗?很难说得通。其实民间许多传说,都是以讹传讹的,当故事听蛮有趣,许多是认真不得的。在佛教,以我所知,观音是一门修耳根的方法。修观音法门,要专注耳根,说吃素可以,说不吃素但只不吃牛肉似乎说不过去。还有一个说法,是吃素可以培养慈悲心,减少杀生。吃肉的人会不会比吃素的人慈悲我不知道,但吃素可以减少杀生,倒是很合逻辑。这是简单的求供问题。不过从自然规律来看,影响也许不大,某物种太多了,会破坏生态平衡,给地球带来灾害;在要求恢复平衡的过程中,也难免要面对伤害。在印度宗教上所说的不杀生,如瑜伽学派的第一戒,其实是ahimsa, a 是否定-非;himsa是暴力,ahimsa是非暴力,是身口意上的非暴力。译作不杀生,是不尽合原意的。有人说,印度宗教讲的不杀生,可能主要是指不杀人,这较合情理。把杀蚊子也包括在内的善人呼吸时请小心,不要杀死空气中的微菌,以免犯戒。善哉。

清真教徒不吃猪肉,据说是猪肉在物质和精神上都不卫生,或吃了会对个人或集体的道德有不良影响。另一说法则是在莫哈莫德的时代,人们不吃肉食动物的肉,而猪,不是纯肉食动物,既吃肉也吃素,所以要在Shari`ah上特别写明,以提醒信徒,猪也是肉食者。

在一个多元宗教的社会里,各教禁忌多少会带来一些麻烦,增加了容忍的需求也降低了密切关系的程度。如果你家吃猪肉,你带忌食猪肉的朋友回家吃饭就要多一番心思;如果你吃荤,你的朋友吃素,连葱蒜都不吃,甚至连用爆过葱蒜的锅炒的素菜也不能吃,你要请他回家吃饭,该怎样办?你会不会选择不请他回家吃饭?这是不是会减低你们的密切关系?

2002年我离开亚庇市政厅时,有位同事请我吃他吃通全亚庇最好吃的东西,带我到新来兴。这店在亚庇挺出名,但独沽一味:牛肉。这是我们同事两年,他第一次也是最后一次请我,而且是请我吃他认为最好吃的东西,我岂可扫他的兴?可是我那时还没有心理准备,勉强吃了,心理还有点别扭。

我并不严格吃素,因为吃素有其麻烦-营养不全,尤其缺乏B12,钙和铁。这里的素菜馆的素菜,多不是青菜萝卜豆芽这些新鲜简单的蔬菜,而是斋鹅斋鸭斋鱼等油腻的煎炸淀粉菜式,有点虚假的意味。我多吃蔬果,少吃红肉,不坚持吃素,更没有充分理由坚持不吃牛肉。若坚持,就执着了,不合佛家或瑜伽教理。其实人的消化系统,对荤素之分,恐怕也是模糊的。

改天你请客,问我:“牛肉吃不吃?”。 “吃!”,我会肯定这样回答你。

31/12/2007 邱写

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Huanglong 黄龙

Huanglong means Yellow Dragon, a picturesque description of the travertine (a) valley formed of old glacier, at the North Western part of Sichuan, China. It is a world heritage site(1) famous for its calcified ponds, lakes, shores, falls, springs, caves, snow-caped mountains, canyons and forest (2a, 2b, 2c, 2d, 2e, 2f).

Access is made difficult by winding mountainous roads with frequent landslide and slippery frozen road surfaces. Lucky are those who make it to this tourist spot. On the way to Huanglong, one passes the snow-caped main peak of Xue Bao Ding(雪宝顶,) at 5588meter above msl.
As one walks up, as I did in 2004 when the cable car system was not yet built, one meets many ponds, such as the Welcoming Pools(迎宾池) which is a system of travertine ponds formed by flowing water containing calcium carbonate in solution over thousands of years. Golden Flying Water Fall(飞瀑流辉) is another spectacular sight.
Body Rinsing Grotto (洗身洞,) is an 1 meter high, 1.5 meter wide cave at the bottom of a 40 meter wide travertine cliff over which water flows. This fall was frozen and looking like a crystal white wall during our visit in late spring and the cave was hidden behind the ice walls.
Golden Sand On Earth (金沙铺地,) is an 1,500 meter long 70-120 meter wide gold colored slopping travertine formation with thin film of water flowing over it. Bonsai Ponds (盆景池,) is a name given to a complex of nearly a hundred shrubs filled travertine ponds of different size and shapes that looks like terraces near Golden Sand On Earth.
Mirror Pool (明镜倒映池) is so named because of its reflective capability. Pool of Tiny Waves (潋滟湖) is nearby as a competitor. Yu Cui Cai Chi (玉翠彩池,) was the highest point we managed to reach within the time limit set by the tour guide. We loved to go further to see the Wu Cai Chi (五彩池) though we were quite exhausted by then, but that may land us in trouble- stranded due to adverse weather and difficult navigation in the evening. Literally translated, Cui Yu Cai Chi means Jade Green Colorful Ponds. It is a complex of many fairly large ponds that appear jade green to our eyes. We understand the Wu Cai Chi further up the hill is even more beautiful, as you can witness from the photos by others.
We couldn’t ask for more. We made it, to me, in the first attempt. Many tourists didn’t make it to Huanglong, many only after several attempts. Huanglong is still as mysterious as its name to the outside world due to its accessibility.

Dec 2007 by Hiew

Sunday, December 16, 2007

忆父亲

父亲于 1990 年 12月14日去世至今,已十二年余了。每次看到内厅墙上他的遗照,都觉得他犹在人间。他的音容,犹深印在我的记忆里。我并不觉得他已远离我们而去。人的记忆,就是这么奇妙。
父亲于清宣统元年,即 1909 年生于广东省潮安县长美乡。我的三弟四弟,就是以乡名来取名的。其实长美乃是“长尾”的美化了的谐音。父亲是老幺,上有大二三姐和四五哥。但我的堂兄弟都称他为三叔,是因为排行时没把姑姑算在内。父亲12岁那年 (他说十三岁,是中国人的传统计算法 )和两个哥哥随我祖母来南洋北婆罗州斗湖。我祖父好象是先他们而来的,而我的三个姑姑,那时大概已出嫁了,留在乡下,没有出来。父亲老年也常通过第三者和我的一个姑姑通信。我这位姑姑很想念他,他也常惦念着她,但每次她约他回乡见面,他总不想去。结果,毛泽东去世那年,与毛同龄的这位姑姑,父亲最后生存的兄姐,也去世了。我二伯二十多岁未婚早逝,我大伯也于五十多岁时就去世了,父亲比祖母长寿,祖母活到八十岁,父亲去世时,已八十一岁了。
父亲只受过一年半的私塾教育,没上过现代学校,但因为天生聪颖,他自习中文,到了可以阅报的程度。他一生主要以务农为生。于 1923 年左右在“灯楼” ( Tinagat )种了十七多英亩的椰子树,后来于1976年,又于椰树下加种了可可以增加收入。在非常时期,在椰园未有出产时,他当过渔夫、也当过日本人大型树胶园的植树工人和工头。我出世那年,或下一年,因为“灯楼”是军事要塞,日本军把这一区的人都赶走了,我们一家,和我堂叔义保叔和一家同宗的比我高三辈的佑存老祖叔,搬到“犀牛港”( Membalua ) 开辟原始森林,种稻和其他农作物以及打猎、捕鱼为生。那一年多的时间,这三家人,和其他许多同时期的斗湖人一样,要自给自足,完全没有和外界贸易的机会。早期还可以下海捕鱼,后来战事紧了,日本军禁止人民出海。种植农作物和打猎,可以糊口。最大的难题,是药物缺乏,维他命B 缺乏,许多人患脚气病、脚溃烂,也有不少人因病致死。
在山打根、斗湖、亚庇这三个潮州人较多的城县里,大部分的潮州人都是经商的。父亲是稀少的例外,和许许多多的客家人一样-务农为生。经商风险大,但大部分的潮籍商人,都很成功,收入都比务农的人高得多。因此,我父母都很羡慕商人。他们自己很老实,没经商的经验和本领、本钱,却希望我们兄弟从商。在他们的心目中,务农是没出息的,唯有经商,才会赚多钱。我家有几位经商的亲戚,他们的收入都很好。他们是我父母经商赚钱的活证据。我大哥首当其冲。他一离开学校,我父母就安排他到“永盛”去做学徒,学习经商。后来又去了“沈华成”。这些都是潮藉友人的商店,我父母的意思,是要我哥哥去学习经商赚钱之正途。可是我大哥自小的志愿和兴趣,却不在经商,也不是务农,而是做个机械师。他后来终于离开“沈华成”,做“的士”司机。这和做机械师就比较接近了,但后来他发觉整天驾车好辛苦,改行做汽车保养vehicle servicing。严格地说,这不算是做机械师,但总算是同行了。我哥哥终于没入行经商,我当一生公务员,我三弟四弟也打工一生,我妹妹和妹夫曾经经过商,但不成功,只有我小弟,学的是农科,却改行经商。他是我父母唯一从商有成的儿子。
我自小喜爱文学,念中学时,我的零用钱,几乎都进了书店。父亲对此,有句名言,是要懂得潮语才会欣赏其妙处的。他说:“儿呀,你都把“纸字”变成了“字纸”了。“字纸”是有字的纸,指书;“纸字”是潮语钞票之意。
我念完高中,接受苏子升老师的指导,报名念中六,希望能得到奖学金,出国留学。而父亲之意,是要我就业,帮他培养五位弟妹。我当时不愿意,颇苦恼,虽有助学金,却不足用,只好在课余和假期做家庭教师,赚钱来补不足之数。我父母则要撑多五六年,我到大学毕业后,才能在经济上帮助他们。那时,我五弟已因病去世,我三弟四弟也离校投身社会了。只有我妹妹和小弟还在求学,我父母的担子也自此较轻了。
单靠卖椰干的收入是有限的。在60年代,一个月只有二百元左右的收入,生活很困难。我哥哥和三弟曾经建议在椰树下加种可可树,父亲开始不答应,担心会伤害到椰树。这些椰树,是他亲手种的,他的担心,是可以理解的。要砍他的椰树,何异于伤害他的子女呢?到了1975年,邻家开始在椰园加种可可,生长得很不错。父亲自以为我们的土地贫瘠,其实这是他的偏见。 Tinagat的土壤,属Brantian formation, 是中等肥沃的农业土壤,很适于种植可可。父亲看到邻居的情况不错,可可苗长得很好,椰子也没受伤,再加上邻居是 BAL 大垦殖公司的高级职员,父亲对他的农业知识有信心,于是,他接受了我的建议,先在住家附近试种几棵可可。我建议他不要刻意施肥,但他却没照做,他特别给可可苗加肥,以致它们长得很茂盛,几个月后,就大量地种起可可来了,一共种了至少十二英亩。两年后,开始有收成,那时可可价很高,每顿六至八千元。在 80年代,可可收入成为他们的主要收入,而椰干则成为副业,收入远远落后于可可豆。他们的生活,自此真正改善,进入“小康”之境。而椰子树则因为分享了可可的肥料,也产量大增。但六十多岁的椰树,高达六、七十尺,树叶茂盛,果子累累的后果,是不少倾斜的椰树,在大风雨之夜倾倒。这之前,没人敢向我父亲提到砍椰树。这时,他自己给危树“打针“,用钻在树身钻洞,倒入油渣,使树自干而死而落叶,以减少椰树倒下压死可可树的危险。
我未上学已开始喝黑狗啤,是父亲带我喝的。另一位和我两父子喝黑啤的是拿督沈清榜的父亲祥郡老叔。我幼时偶尔看见父亲因喝醉酒而呕吐。父亲也抽烟,但没有传给我。我之不抽烟是因为我早抽烟。我念小二时,和同学到灯楼海滨远足,一位陈姓同学带了一包香烟,我抢了一支,点了,大口地抽。这一抽可好,差点把我呛死了。这个经验,印象深刻,影响深远。我一生没烟瘾,就是怕呛不敢把烟吸入肺部。父亲六十多岁戒烟。当时我已移居亚庇,没逢其盛。许多人戒烟如上战场,做作甚多,戒了又吸,吸了又戒。父亲可直截了当,把烟一丢,就戒了。由吸烟,改为喝绿茶,一点也不困难。也许是他住在山芭,家里没烟,不能闲来无事,吸支玩玩。所以就戒断了。
父亲一生没戒酒。他六十岁之后,很少出外。一般上,每月到埠上理发一次。其他时间,都在家园里,早睡早起,白天在园里劳动。他的身体很强壮。有一次,他病了,发热,去看医生。医生诊断是虐疾。我还不大相信。因为他没有冷到发抖的病徵。但医生既然这么诊断,这么配药,就让他把药吃完再说吧。吃完药,病也痊愈了。那是我第一次碰到患虐疾而不发冷的人。父亲年轻时就开始喝酒。但他没多喝,一次只喝一peg.他多喝中国酒,“诒阙斋” 是他喝得最多的。我买竹叶青给他,他也喜欢,给他喝白兰地,他也喝,茅台太浓,我喝不下,他却喝得有味。本来他只是晚饭才喝的,不知什么时候开始,大概那时已六十多岁了,他除了在晚饭时喝,午饭时也喝了。但每次还是一peg.后来,早上起身也加了一peg.本来,用小酒杯,后来,杯也不用了。就从瓶里喝,但还是一天三次,每次一 peg左右,不多。一个嗜酒的人,能做到这一点,是何等的自律呀!他老年只有喝酒喝茶听潮语广播的喜好。做儿女的,也不拂他意,尽力来满足他的嗜好了。我们还曾给他喝XO,他自然是识货的。不想他在81高龄,却两次中风而辞世了。我祖母也高龄中风,半身不遂三个月才辞世,先父却于90年12月13日辰8时多第二次中风,14日晨四时就走了,没受病魔折磨。
父亲去世时,我在亚庇。一个多月前,他到埠上去,拜访了老友拿督沈清榜,和我堂叔义保叔共进午餐。这是他二十年没做过的事。他似乎有预感。他还对母亲说,他自中国空手而来,现在子女都成家了,车子可以直驶到屋底下,他已没什么遗憾了。他又常常问母亲我为什么这么久没来看他。
12月14日,我们一家早上7点多赶到斗湖,他已去世。他的脸,是祥和的,他是带笑而去的。我一直以为他可以活到九十岁,真没想到他会去得那么快。我老家这条村有好几个老人活到九十多岁。在山芭里,空气新鲜,山芭人日日劳动,身体健康,寿命长是不奇怪的。八十岁之前去世,在这条村算是短命了。
父亲年轻时,在“灯楼”开辟山芭,养了很多狗,并以打猎野猪来提供食肉。他六十岁以后,可以说是过着隐士生活,心很静,与人不大来往,吃得很清淡,生活简单有规律,没什么烦恼。这也许是长寿的原因之一。
父亲虽没受过正规教育,但他具备中国传统的儒释道的思想。他说的话,给我们的教诲,说得虽简扑,却很有哲学意味。我是很受他这方面的影响的。
开收音机听潮语广播,听潮曲, 差不多是父亲的日课。潮语电台有限,他每天都准时收听。他的收音机,大概用了二三十年,是电晶产品之前的古董,60年代的产品,今日看来,是庞然大物,身长约两尺,高一尺,好象是荷兰产品。除了这三样嗜好之外,父亲的生活,够得上是“清心寡欲”的。他老年不与人争,不与世争,没什么要求。世态炎凉,他看透了,也安然接受了。年轻时的盛气,早已磨尽,二十多年的“隐居”,早把“世尘”自心中涤尽。临终前,他除了有高血压,身体很健壮,没什么病痛,他很满足,很平静,也认命。他常对我说,阿妈(祖母)活到八十一岁,我也差不多了。他很自豪于他母亲的长寿,而不以为自己会比她更长寿。父亲比母亲大十岁。母亲没上过学堂,不识字。父亲多少因此有点优越感。母亲又是个嫁鸡随鸡,任劳任怨的养女,一向都顺着父亲,默默地忍着,心里有压力。父亲去世后,她少了一层压力,加上有心跳病不能太过劳动,身体倒慢慢胖了起来。父亲临终的前几个月,为母亲准备洗澡的温水,还对她说对她不起,一生都没好好照顾她。
为了生活,父亲年轻时常到后山打猎。临终前,他常和母亲及弟媳提起,并说他不知最后的日子将会怎样,心里颇后悔年轻时的杀生,对报应颇恐惧。父亲不是佛教徒,这生大概也没人对他宣说佛法。他对天主教则多少有点排斥。其实,他不知什么是天主教、基督教,家里是拜关公和祖先的。不过那是我祖母和母亲的事,我父亲既不反对,也不参与,大概是祖传的,他也默许。他并不迷信。
父亲中年有个愿望,那是母亲生了五个儿子再生一个女儿时,他希望有五男二女。好象潮洲人说五男二女是大福气,所以,我母亲四十岁时,又生了我小弟。那时,我还在斗湖念初中。我们兄弟姐妹,都是在家生产,祖母或父亲接生的。我那时虽只十多岁,却亲眼看到我父亲因生多一个儿子而失望。但这个小弟,却成为我母亲的宝贝,也是我们兄弟之中,最孝顺母亲的孩子。我妹妹则一直是我父亲的掌上明珠,连出阁那天,父亲也亲口吩咐我们陪妹妹到夫家。我妹妹和她的哥哥们一样,承接了父母鲠直的遗传,也遗传了父亲的金口.在众嫂嫂间,她听了许多是是非非,却不传一是非.这是她的可爱.我们兄弟,平常相对,多默默无言,但外人是不知道,如有大事,我们是一条心的.平时生活,各有伴侣,伴侣的背景生活习惯不同,为了各自家庭,我们都各自经营各自的家庭,让孩子有个较美满的成长环境,把兄弟一心那条链藏起来,但一旦有大事,这条链会比什么都坚固.我看她们妯娌之间,也未必明白这点.孩子们更不用说了.不过,除大哥外,我们每人都只有两个子女,而他们兄妹/姐弟之间,可能也存在着同样的无形的链.
我大哥十五六岁就离家.我父亲租了拿督沈的山芭时,我和父亲两人常在此山芭工作,一起去和拿督沈的父亲喝黑啤酒.那时我念初中,人也很成熟,常和父亲讨论问题.那时我们很接近,我以一个刚发育的少年处于反叛的年龄,当然和上一辈有许多不同的看法.但我是一个比较成熟的人,我对中国传统和革新文化,都比同龄的人知道得多,皆因为我把不少的”纸字”变成”字纸”.对父亲的看法,虽多不能同意,却能以较客观的态度来对待、去了解.因为这样,我比较了解父亲。知道他的思想并不肤浅,并不是一个只上过一年半学,大约只能看懂报纸的农人能有的。我很钦佩他的思想深遂,态度豁达。这不是一般的模仿父亲、崇拜父亲的心理。我五十岁以后,认为大部分不懂华文,只懂英文,甚至念了英文大学的华人,骨子里都深受中国传统文化影响的看法,大概奠基于此。我多少能接受轮回之说,也与此有关。父亲今生没念过儒释道的书,前生或许有?要不然,他的朴素的儒者释家道家之风,又是如何来的?他自己怎样说出不少合于三家思想的论调? 我之喜欢哲学,也许受他影响或遗传?
潮州人传统上有三个名字,一个是出生时取的名,一个是小名,如阿猪阿狗之类,一个是书名,是上学时取的。除了妹妹和小弟,我们五兄弟都有书名。书名是按辈分取的。名字的第一个字代表我们的辈分。我祖父是金辈,父亲玉辈,我们陶辈 (看来是越来越不值钱了)。我们的下一辈是殷辈。我大哥的书名是陶忠,我的是陶正,都是父亲自己取的。一忠一正,代表了他的为人态度,他的儒家思想。
根据现在政府的定义,在60岁之前,我父亲的收入,是在贫穷线下。但如遇亲友有难,父亲总是慷慨的。有人来投靠他,不顾母亲反对,他总收留他们。有时一住整个月。他本来租拿督沈的山芭,后来却让给更有需要的朋友。有人向他借钱,他明知有去无回,也大大方方把储蓄拿出大部分来。如果真的没办法,他也会带朋友去找别的朋友,如祥郡老叔等人。母亲为此颇有烦言,但父亲总无言以对。我的物质条件比父亲好,也多少有他的遗传。朋友属下向我借钱,我虽不能完全满足他们的要求,但很少让他们空手而去。有时明明知道他们是在讲谎话,心总硬不起来。事后就以“算是拿钱买个经验和明白一个人”来安慰自己。

2003年 11月邱记

Thursday, December 13, 2007

刘玉波与我


丹斯里刘玉波一九一七年生於中国广东潮安归湖乡,十九岁南来北婆罗洲,在山打根埠商行任职,三年后移居斗湖,与朋友合创 "胜成"号,经营杂货.第二次世界大战结束后,自创"合成公司",经营木业,业务蒸蒸日上,享有"沙巴木材大王"美誉.嗣后宏图大展,生意多样化, 且开拓到海外,而富甲一方.

丹斯里刘晚年设立了刘玉波基金,捐献慈善机构,学校团体及各族寺庙.丹斯里在乡团,社团,都很活跃,由一九七二起至一九八三年担任亜庇潮州公会理事长,一九八二年至今担任亜庇德教会紫瑞阁阁长,并被礼聘为马来西亚潮州公会联合会名誉主席,贡献良多,深受政府嘉许和各族景仰,屡获国家及州元首表扬.于一九六五年至二零零零年先后获颁ADK, PPM 勋章,拿督(PGDK),拿督斯里邦里玛(SPDK)及丹斯里(PSM)勋衔,二零零三年荣获沙巴中华大会堂颁发华社最高荣衔"社会贡献钻石奖"

初识丹斯里刘时,我还是个住在乡下的小孩子,跟父亲或祖母到埠上,逗留在亲友店里, 以沈华成, 保成号,万有号,合成等居多.据丹斯里刘说,祖母在一九五十年代看潮剧时,就夜宿他家,而我则跟着祖母免费看潮剧.在我记忆中,我们多住宿万有号.也许也寄住合成,但记忆颇模糊.

丹斯里刘年纪比我母亲长,我们向以叔辈称呼. 他娶了我们本家的一位宗姐为妻,也没有改变我们对他的称呼.

在乡下小学念书时, 有位翁我音老先生赏识我,献议我爸爸把我过继给他. 我爸爸虽然多子,大概不舍得我,此事议而不结,不了了之.丹斯里刘则建议让我到市区潮州人办的新华小学念书,也没结果.当时,新华的成绩比我就读的中华要好.

长大后,我大哥租合成的的汽油站经营汽车服务业,我三弟服务于合成数十年.丹斯里刘玉波成立刘玉波基金,邀我任董事,至今也好几年了. 记得在一九八十几年, 拿督林源心贵为华人最高政治领袖时,曾建议丹斯里刘设立基金会,真是高瞻远瞩.

就我所知,丹斯里刘玉波 有许多过人之处.首先,他是白手兴家的商业奇才.我初认识他时,他只拥有斗湖市区临海的一间亚答屋店, 而此店也在五十年代给火烧了;但到了七十年代,合成已是一间大公司了.其二,他写得一手好字. 我不懂书法,故我特别在此刊登一幅他的墨宝的相片,让有识者来品辨. 其三,他有设立基金会的胸怀,把财产的一部分,用在公益事业上. 其四,他的乡情很浓,在斗湖领导建立潮州义山,照顾乡人身后之事.
邱记 Dec 2007

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

刘玉波基金捐一百三十万元作庇中第四期发展经费

上午十时正,刘玉波基金在亚庇玉波大厦,颁发一百三十万元捐款予亚庇中学,充作庇中第四期建校基金.拿督陈沛武代表刘玉波基金颁发,林克光代表亚庇中学接收这项义款.见证人刘玉波基金方面包括我,丹斯里刘玉波的秘书黄玉霞; 庇中方面,有校政委员会主席拿督斯里陈友仁,署理主席也是校友会主席陈雪芳,同乡会联合会代表黄长水,校长,两位副校长,董事吕振胜,黄挺秀,陈俊杰,包望侨 募捐主任拿督黄小娟….我戴两顶帽子:是刘玉波基金董事,也是庇中副董事长.

庇中第四期发展经费约计四百三十万元,有了这一百三十万元,累积筹获经费已达三百三十万元,离目标仅一百万元,应该不是一个难以筹获的数目.如果不是因为丹斯里黄植濂以拿督陈友仁在语言上冲闯了他而撤销已答应由他本人及神山基金局捐献的一百七十五万元,庇中第四期发展经费已全部有着落了.

庇中原本请求刘玉波基金捐助一百万元,并献议为丹斯里刘玉波在校园竖立铜像,且已获同意. 董事黄挺秀建议献议改以大厦命名,得到捐方同意.当拿督刘楚勤局绅获知一栋大厦的建筑费约一百七十万元,政府约津贴四十万元时,他毅然答应拿督陈沛武副董事长,再加三十万元捐款予庇中.这事只有少数人知道,特予记录,以供胡适之博士的徒孙参考.

林克光董事长即席告诉大家,这是他一生第一次收到一笔这么大的捐款,也许也是最后一次.

11/12/2007 邱记

Saturday, December 8, 2007

Me & Mine

These statements describe some aspects of “me” and “mine” the existence of which is of ontological interest with which few cares.

** Seek dynamic balance in Harmony.
** Be happy: ( I knew this as a teenager).
** Humanity- view everything from the point of view of the human race. Not my view, not your (singular) view, nor our (you and I two), but Our (all human beings) view. Start from you and I. Seek for the common and leave the difference. In conflict, look at the interest of the total human race.
** Western philosophy looks outward, Indian inward while Chinese looks closely at the immediate, neither too far outward nor inward. How to integrate them?
** Life-long learning is my norm.
** “Change” is the only constant is not to be viewed as a paradox.
** You don’t prove anything, may be you can’t. Verification Theory has to be replaced with Falsification Theory.
** Newton’s Theory was replaced by Theory of Relativity only because of scope of application but Theory of Relativity can’t reconcile with Quantum Physics. Can String or M-Theory replace or include bothTR and QP?
** At human level, we have yet to solve the mind/body problem. Or is there a clear definition of or distinction between mind and body?
** How can we be sure of our knowledge without solving the mind/body problem? Or even we have solved it, still can we be sure of our knowledge?
** Much as I dislike belief, we can’t live without resorting to belief.
@ I asked, in my childhood, funny questions: if my Dad didn’t marry my Mom, would I be here? I have no answer then and I still don’t have one now, for different reasons, though.
@ Born in a village, as second son of family with 6 boys and one girl in Tawau. Walked then rode bicycle to primary school 2 miles away and rode to junior secondary school 8 miles away. Good exercise.
@ Liked sword fighting story books 武侠连环 图 in primary school and read traditional Chinese story books章回小说。In junior secondary school, read Chinese modern literature of the 1920s and 1930s. In senior secondary school, read widely, including philosophy, psychology and literature. Later in life, added computer, acupuncture and acupressure, qi gong, High Energy physics, Yoga and Consciousness.
@ A crucial moment that changed my life took place in 1963. My teacher Mr. Soo苏子升 advised me to go to Sabah College to study Form six (science). From there, I got Colombo Plan Scholarship to study Engineering and became a Government Engineer; I met many Sabah College schoolmates in the course of my civil service. I also stayed in the hostel for 2 years and learned how to live with students from different races.
@ I didn’t know what Civil Engineering was when I took the course. I have no one then to seek advice from. I was an art student ended up in a science school and Engineering school which required engineering students to take non-engineering subjects: I studied Economics and Psychology for 2 years. They proved to be useful in my working life as an Engineer and manager.
@ My art student background and my reading influence me as an Engineer. When I was Branch Chairman of IEM, I got engineers to write in laymen’s language about engineering. I look upon myself as a human first, then engineer. After all I learn most of the time to be a human and only 4 years of intensive training to be qualified as an engineer. Surely I am more qualified as a human then an engineer.
** There might be exceptional leaders or events that made drastic changes to history, but ordinary people like us individually do not matter as much as in a group or team. We have to be organized and to work in team to be more effective and efficient. In any organization, leadership and management are important. Engineers who head organization or a branch of it must learn to lead and manage.
** Purpose, Process and People are the 3Ps that are important to any organization.
** Purpose is the why and should include vision, mission, objective and function statements etc.
** Process is the How. Methods, procedures, guidelines etc
** Core business has shifted from core products or core services to core processes.
** People include training, communication, and empowerment. Anything related to human resources.
** Training and learning is the two sides of one coin. Life-long learning is the way of life of the new generation professionals.
** Communication is important but difficult. A lot of disputes arise out of nothing but miscommunication or communication breakdown. People who have not attempted to learn and practice effective communication will not understand or believe this.
** The line between public sector and private sector will become blurred.
** ICT and globalization is inevitable. We have to pay a price for it. I prefer localization in globalization.
** Dependence and interdependence to be differentiated. Only people who have learned and practiced independence can be counted on for interdependence.
** Professionals work in Teams and on the move all the time. No permanent job. Good Team players will flourish. If both husband and wife are professionals, they may live separately, and meet elsewhere on weekends. Their parents may be asked to look after their kids. 3 generations under the same roof (三代同堂) is not a bad idea.
** Balance these areas: material gains, physical health, emotional and social well-being, mental and spiritual need. I neglected my physical health for too long and I now regretted it. Too bad it is too late!
** Seek commonality and leave the difference aside for future settlement.
** Ancient Indian: 4 phases in life. 1) Learn to live in this world; 2) live well in this world; 3) learn to live in the spiritual world and 4) teach others to live in the spiritual world.
** Do the right thing at the right time. Keep you mind here and now. Focus on the task at hand.
** Don’t waste energy. Recalling unpleasant past and fantasizing the future are wasteful and may be stressful.

By Hiew 2007

Thursday, December 6, 2007

现代歇后语

李健英,男,三十岁,是本城有名的钻石王老五。健英人如其名,长得健美英俊,而且,人很机警,手腕圆滑,21 岁大学商科毕业后,即从事直销业,几年来,银行户口已长到七位数了。他不但嘴巴甜,出手大方,对女人,不管她是十岁的小女孩,20 岁的少女,和60 岁的祖母级贵妇,都很和善,很亲切。待他有兴趣的对象,更是大方体贴。城里未婚的适婚女士,想嫁给他的不下两打,而已嫁了的,也有几人公然表示恨不相逢未嫁时。其中还有一位甚至表明随时愿为他离婚。可是健英却迟迟不结婚。他的中学同学,除了一位是抱独身主义者外,其他的都结婚了。抱独身主义者,并不是中性人,也不是怕或恨女人的男人。他身边也常有女伴。只是他的人生哲学有点偏,他说:不必为了爱喝牛奶而养只母牛。健英不同。他没抱独身主义,对女性,也没抱“玩玩”之心。他每次爱上一个女孩,都是全心全意的、专一的。但是,这专一总不能持久。好象一朵花,盛开了,就非谢不可。他很少会和一个女孩子恋上半年的。分手后,有的恨他,有的怨他,有的成了他的“兄弟”,或者他变为她们的“姐妹”,有的对他念念不忘。但没有一个会说他的坏话,包括恨他的;也没有一个能和他重拾旧欢。他一直向前,一直有新女友,一直在寻找。但到了三十岁,他还找不到他的婚伴。
他也为此烦恼过。但烦恼归烦恼,碰到漂亮的女人,不管已婚未婚,他又全心全意展开追求了。
一日,在地铁站,他从楼梯口转下来,右眼就先瞄到一位高挑身材,满身发射出智慧与艳丽之光的女孩。他很自然地以十分优美的男士风度走到她身前,使出他最得意、最万无一失的手法,向她展开攻势。从十八岁起,这是他第三次用了这绝招,而前两次,是彻底的成功。这一次,他的信心也十足。他充满了活力,充满了希望,以热忱的眼光,望着她,等待冰山的融化。女的却恰恰相反,把脸冷了下来。健英是老经验,知道凡是能冷对他的,都是惹不得的。每次他都能很得体地自找台阶下台。但这次,他的心却不受控制,还贸贸然冒出一句最不得体的下台词:“对不起,女士,我认错人,我以为是我母亲。” 听了这话,女的不怒反笑,嘴角露出一个令健英三个月后还忘不了的笑容,缓缓地说:“不可能,我已结了婚。“

健英是个脑筋转得极快的人,马上听出了弦外之音,他羞得落荒而逃,平常的仪态,已全丢在九霄云外去了。他逃到一个巨大的有一幅性感美女照片的广告牌下,才定下心来,蹲在地上,两手抱头,自言自语:好家伙,好个“不可能,我已结了婚”,居然骂我是私生子、杂种!。。。。。活该!

(隽野2003年3月)

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Hatha Yoga and Science

This article is dedicated to Hatha Yoga practitioners, students and those who think they want but are unable to learn Hatha Yoga for whatever reasons.

1. Why practice Hatha Yoga? How to practice Hatha Yoga correctly and why Hatha Yoga should be practiced the way it is taught by competent teachers? These are the questions I will try to answer in a simplistic way to the extent I understand the subject. It will be beyond me for more details.

2. Purposes of Hatha Yoga: Practiced correctly, Hatha Yoga has these benefits: Physical Flexibility and Strength, Balance or stability, Awareness of the self at different levels.

3. Hatha Yoga is not a mere physical exercise; it has to be practiced with the Body, Mind and Breath coordinated.

4. Flexibility: stretching muscles increases its suppleness and length, both increases joint flexibility and hence body flexibility. But the speed with which and the extent to which the muscles can be safely stretched have limits. Stretching too fast causes body to stiffen up. Stretching too far causes the muscles to start trembling and resist the stretch. Hence in Hatha Yoga, we stretch slowly to our comfortable capacity and sustain the stretch for a few breaths.

5. Strength: Muscle tone improves when we concentrate on repetitive movements of short ranges of motions.

6. Awareness: Yoga is always practiced with full attention of the mind. Constant observation of the body sensation, habitual postures and movements, habitual exertion, emotional states, breathing pattern, thought patterns in Yoga practice trains the mind for close observation and enables us to know ourselves at different levels of the self and to correct imbalance of our body as well as incorrect postures or practice.

7. Balance: Hatha Yoga exercises are mainly stretching or postures. Postures cause stretching as well as relaxation. Some postures when practiced with mind and breath coordinated, improves body balance not only in the overall frame of the body, but also amongst and within parts of the body. Balance of body depends on, among other things, muscular strength and integrity, nervous conditions which may be affected by emotional states, sensory perception etc.


8. To understand how and why Yoga works, one should recognize that Yoga is a Science. In Yoga, you use your own bodies as the Laboratories and apparatus and your mind as the scientists. You learn to observe yourselves and improve your movements as well as your precision in your observations.

9. So, keep your mind here and now on the space occupied by your body. In the process, you will note that, for example, inhalation assists elevation whereas exhalation assists going into a posture. So, observe carefully the relationship between breath and efficiency of movements and learn to make use of the breath to assist your movements.

10. Shift from one posture to another smoothly and slowly, clearly understanding the entire process. Respect pain and other strong sensations and conditions. Decide to avoid pain, which is a warning sign of impending physical harm or damage.


11. To know scientifically why Hatha Yoga has the benefits described, let us have a brief look at our nervous systems and muscles and their relationship.

12. Central and Peripheral Nervous Systems

a. Central Nervous System: the brain and the spinal cord.
b. Peripheral Nervous System: all other parts of the entire nervous system


13. Central Nervous System can further be divided into
i. Somatic Nervous System and
ii. Autonomic Nervous System

14. Autonomic Nervous System can further be subdivided into
i. Sympathetic Nervous System
ii. Parasympathetic Nervous System
iii. Enteric Nervous System

15. Somatic Nervous System comes under our conscious control. It innervates skeletal muscle and receives sensory information about pain, touch, vision and audition.

16. Autonomic Nervous Systems largely work independent of our will or conscious control or the somatic system. We should not confuse autonomic with automatic. We can breathe automatically by courtesy of our somatic nervous System. The Somatic and the Autonomic Nervous Systems interact with each other and we constantly depend on such smooth interactions.

17. Sympathetic Nervous System arouses and prepares us globally for emergency and is stimulated by stresses. It also quiets down the body latter when it is sedated by breathing or relaxation techniques. The Sun Salutation is a good Hatha Exercise to stimulate Sympathetic Nervous System and Corpse to calm it down.


18. Parasympathetic Nervous System, in contrast, is organ specific and does not work globally. It manages the functions of many internal organs and structures for us at the unconscious level.

19. The Enteric Nervous System is new to many. It supervises the digestion and propulsion of food through the bowel and manages other bowel functions. And it is found to be related to emotional states but not enough is yet known. It is important to relaxation.

20. Neurons: 100 billion in the brain alone. They are the basic structural and functional units of the nervous systems. Neurons have several components. A nucleated cell body that supports growth and development. Cellular extensions that receive and transmit information. There are two types of extensions: dendrites and axons. Dendrites receive information. Axons transmit information in the form of nerve impulses to other sites. There are many dendrites and only one axon per neuron.

21. Three types of neurons are important in Hatha Yoga:

a. Sensory neurons: carry the flow of sensation from the peripheral nervous system to the central nervous system and consciousness.
b. Motor neurons: carry instructions from the brain and spinal cord into the peripheral nervous system and from there to muscles and glands.
c. Inter-neurons: interposed between sensory and motor neurons and transmit our will and volition to the motor neurons.

22. Volition: Actual initiation of the ON and OFF commands from the cerebral cortex and other regions of our Central Nervous System that are responsible for commanding our action.

23. Reflexes are opposed to volition: Reflex is response that bypasses high centers of consciousness, e.g. cerebral cortex. For speedy reaction, the information is passed to the spinal cord and decision is made there without referring to the cerebral cortex. There are dozens of reflexes, three of which are important in Yoga.

24. Myotatic stretch reflex: Better known as knee jerk. They are found all over the body, but especially active in antigravity muscles. They should be minimized to avoid muscle shortening that limits stretch. That is why you move into a posture slowly if your aim is lengthening muscles and increasing flexibility.

25. Clasp knife reflex: Also a stretch reflex. Its end result causes the target muscle to relax rather than contract. Incoming axon does not terminate at motor neuron but at inhibitory interneuron. This reflex can be used to advantage in flexibility exercise.

26. Flexion reflex: This is a kind of Pain reflex. It not only activates flexor muscles but also relax extensor muscles, to make the flexion easy.

27. Muscle movements: By itself, muscle contracts or relaxes. Muscle does not pull itself though it may relax and allows to be lengthened when pulled by an external force. Muscle contracts when the motor neurons impinge impulses on it on command from the Central Nervous System. The strength of the contraction depends on the rate of impulses reaching the muscle. When there is no nervous impulse, the muscle relaxes.

28. In hatha practice, we cause the muscles to shorten or lengthen. Shortening is generally concentric. Concentric shortening takes place when muscle fibers stimulated by nerve impulses responded by the entire muscle shortening. Lengthening, however, is generally eccentric. Whenever a muscle increases in length under tension while resisting gravity by contracting some of its fibers, this is called eccentric lengthening. Note that gravity is an external force that can cause relaxed muscles to lengthen.

29. Stretch receptors are pain receptors found in the bellies of muscles. When muscles are stretched by external forces too fast or too far, the receptors are triggered off and muscles start to contract as a self defense mechanism to resist the stretching which may lead to muscle tear.

30. Isotonic exercise strictly refers to shortening of muscles under a constant load but the term is now used loosely to denote exercises involving movement under moderate or minimal resistance. Raising and lowering a book in your hand repetitively is an isotonic exercise. Isotonic exercise increases strength.

31. Isometric exercise involves holding still under substantial resistance. Holding a book without raising it or allowing it to fall is an isometric exercise of the same muscles. After 15 seconds or so, the stretched muscles start to relax and lengthen if the stretch is within comfortable limits. Otherwise the stretch receptors will be triggered off to resist the stretch.


32. To gain flexibility, you stretch slowly and within your comfortable capacity and sustain the stretch for a few breaths which last for more than the 15 seconds or so required for motor neurons to stop impinging nerve impulses on the muscle tissues concerned thus allowing them to relax and lengthen under the stretch without triggering the stretch receptors or go slowly into a posture which results in a moderate stretch. The individual muscle fibers can growth also in length by the addition of sarcomeres.

33. To gain strength, you have to work up the motor neurons to keep on firing nerve impulses to the muscles tissue concerned to contract the tissues and this can be achieved by repetitive movements of short ranges of motions. The strength of the contraction is proportional to the rate of nerve impulse impinging on the muscle fiber.

34. The above two exercises are done with volition, that is, within the conscious control of your cerebral cortex. What happen if you simply toss your body parts without conscious control? You may activate reflexes which may not work towards your objective. Reflexes are controlled from your spinal cord, not from your cerebral cortex, the higher consciousness.

35. But this does not mean reflexes are always counter productive. Some of them can be productive but you need to select the right ones to activate to your advantage. You must know yourself better and use the knowledge to advance your objectives.

36. Balance requires not only flexibility and strength, but also keen senses and training. Flexibility enables you to arrange your body parts in a balanced architecture, strength allows you to maintain such architecture even under limiting conditions and your senses guide you in doing so and training gives your efficiency in doing so quickly and with little effort.

37. The act of breathing is a somatic act of skeletal muscles. When we breathe consciously, we command from the cerebral cortex; when we don’t, the command shifts to the medulla and pons at the brain stem. These lower centers of respiration manage somatic aspects of breathing automatically.

38. The Sensory limb of Autonomic Nervous System carries information on oxygen and carbon dioxide levels in the blood etc to the respiration centers. This is the important link between Somatic and Autonomic Nervous Systems in respiration. There are also other ways in which breathing is affected by the autonomic mechanisms.

39. Quiet breathing influence the autonomic circuits that slow heart beats and reduce blood pressure, producing calm and sense of balance.

40. To relax, all these aspects must be tackled. First skeletal muscular relaxation, which depends on somatic activities, requires the sympathetic system be quiet down, the parasympathetic system is not busy managing house keeping, the Enteric system is not digesting food or concern with regrets of past, anxiety for future, fear of the unknown or a overly joyful mood of the present.


41. We normally end a Hatha session with Systematic Relaxation in the Corpse. Corpse posture keeps muscles still and allows the motor neurons to stop firing impulses and thus allows the muscles to relax. But muscles can be aroused by mental activity too. Keeping the mind working on simple task focuses it and over time the mind also quiets down.

42. There are obvious warning signs to excess in physical exercises, but not in breathing exercises. The traditional warnings are many. It seems that the rhythm and record of breath resonate throughout the body. It seems to accentuate whatever is in the mind, good or bad.

43. Deep relaxation also should not be overdone. Motor neurons get lazy and you may lose your capacity to control them. Or even worse, you do not get feedback of this happening. Practice relaxation, therefore, not more than twice a day of no more than 20 minutes per session.

By Hiew 2007

Monday, December 3, 2007

沟通难

这是一个很老的故事,许多人都听过,我也听过几次,每次都觉得新鲜可喜。现在来转述一次,听过的读者,请不要浪费你的时间;没听过的,请你记着,以后看过我弄出来的微篇小说而觉得我“不知所谓”时,请记得这则故事,并笑一笑,以增进健康,则功德无量矣。

故事的主角阿牛哥,在山芭渡过童年、小镇念完初中,以后回老家做小生意,因为生意愈做愈大,又从山芭搬到小镇、小镇搬到亚庇来, 是一个成功的商人。阿牛哥搬来亚庇是五年前的事;那时阿牛哥已经四十岁了,但还是时时有疑惑。在亚庇,阿牛哥不再叫阿牛哥,是亚纽哥。一方面是风水,一方面是文化的考量。名一定要正,不然天天给人叫着,不好的名都成了恶咒,那可不是好玩的。而亚纽者,亚洲之枢纽也,而二十一世纪的亚洲,听说是要朝着成为世界经济之枢纽的方向走的,而亚纽正是阿牛的谐音,叫呀叫的,阿牛哥非飞黄腾达不可了。

这可不是乱说的。五年来,阿牛哥,对不起,是亚纽哥,他的财产已增加了三倍,而听说所得税却越付越少。你想知道底细吗?亚纽哥是不会告诉你的,也不会承认有这样的事。

亚纽哥不读哈佛大学讲管理的那一套,因为,第一,他不识多个英文字;第二,他对于他的经验,很有信心。他有他的一套管理学,要不他的生意怎会愈做愈大?邓小平不是说过:“实践是检验真理的最好方法” 吗?他的方法之一是请客吃饭。饭吃得开心,凡事好商量。当然,他不会请我吃饭,因为我对扩大他的生意,不会作出任何贡献。他请吃饭的对象是精挑细选的,而被选中的人,在权、钱和气势上,都要比亚纽哥高一个马头。

那晚,亚纽哥约了陈老板、李师爷(律师)、黄经理和何会计七点半在食为天海鲜酒家的贵宾室吃饭。亚纽哥七点二十分正到达。李师爷七时半准时到,黄经理七点三十五分到,何会计七时四十分到。大家一面喝着啤酒,一面在等陈老板。七时四十五分陈老板还没到。亚纽哥对着他的冒牌 ROLEX瞄了一眼,喝了一大口啤酒,硬生生把喉里什么要升起的东西咽下。大家慢慢地聊、时间慢慢地过。李师爷望向他的手表的眼光,正给亚纽哥捕抓到,他不自觉地扫了他自己的手表一下:七时五十五分。他不自觉地冒出了一句:“怎么该来的还没来!”陈老板是当晚亚纽哥私底下确认的主客嘛。

话刚说完,李师爷站了起来,脸上露出不满之色,喃喃地说:“哦,原来我不该来的却来了!” 于是转身离去。亚纽哥气急败坏,站了起来,想把李师爷拦住。但他坐得离房门最远,而李师爷却坐得最近。亚纽哥才拉开自己的椅子,李师爷已出了房门了。他只好坐下,叹了一口气,又喃喃地说:“唉,不该走的却走了。”
这句话给黄经理听了,好生刺耳,也站起来离去,在门口还丢下一句:“原来该走的是我!”亚纽哥摸不着头脑,望着何会计苦笑。何会计比较知道亚纽哥的为人,知道老李老黄是误会了他。他对亚纽哥的应对能力的不高明,也看到了一点。于是倚老卖老地劝亚纽哥:“老纽,你说话可得小心点嘛,不要开口就得罪人。”亚纽哥好生委屈。我哪里又得罪了他们了?他对何会计说:“我又不是说他们!”
这一说可好了,连何会计也给气走了。临走还留下一句:“原来你说的是我?我还好心劝你呢!”

亚纽哥请的客,该来的未来,不该走的都走光了。他颓废地摊在椅子上,大喊:“伙计!埋单!”

食为天海鲜酒家有个成文的规矩:用贵宾室,结账总数的底价是三百大元。亚纽哥只叫了菜,还没上菜,三瓶啤酒还没喝完,账结下来,还不到四十元。亚纽哥是熟客,柜台不敢作主,只好打电话向老板请示。亚纽哥等得不耐烦,脸渐渐转红,不知是酒精起作用还是血压上升。
(隽野 2003年三月)

Sunday, December 2, 2007

First anniversary out of work

Last year on this day I wrote “first day out of work”. To a certain extent, I was plunging into an unknown after a 32 years employment full of daily routines. I have witnessed friends who enjoyed their first 6 months of retirement and ended up being bored to death after that and either sought for employment or forced themselves to accept a more or less meaningless life of waiting for death to come. I knew their problem was unable to occupy their free time and I was confident I won’t have that problem as I have hobbies that would take up all my free time. I also knew that I needed a routine and that being so, I have prepared a 6 month daily routine in my Outlook Calendar to guide me. After the first 6 months, I modified the routine for another 6 months. It worked quite well. I was following it up to about 90% of the time. I intend to keep modifying it and using it until a new unwritten routine is established for this new phase of life.

In this one year, the most notable difference in my retired life is the absence of mental stress that used to briefly ruin my mind as I got out of bed in the morning thinking I have to face this or that problem that I still have no solution. This absence makes my day more enjoyable and I found myself more looking forward to live the day.

The second obvious difference is I spent more time on physical exercise. I nearly brisk walk 45 minutes in the morning in Tun Fuad Park 5 days a week and walked up and down my staircase for 20 over minutes or do other exercise in the remaining 2 days, including Hatha Yoga. Besides, I conducted 90 minute Hatha Yoga class and 30 minutes group meditation 3 times a week in the HII Centre. With the more regular physical exercises, Hatha Yoga and meditation, which I also do almost daily, my health, despite the fact that age is catching up, has improved. I must have improved my muscles and postures that my back problem has tremendously reduced.

This morning I woke up early as usual, moved my bowel, read the 2 daily papers, have fruits as breakfast, walked up and down the stair for 30 minutes, changed 2 light bulbs, checked one garden tap, took my morning bath, made a few phone calls, including a lunch and afternoon tea appointments with old friends who remember today is my official birth day, wrote some emails, including one to the Mayor, translated one of my Master’s article from English to Chinese, sent a letter I wrote last week to an old friend in Taiwan, attended to the Telekom technicians who came to install my modem for Broad Band internet access which can be considered my birthday present. That took up the whole morning. After the Telekom technicians have left, I left my house to have lunch and afternoon tea with my long time friends who remembered my birthday and bought me birthday cake and Durian Swiss roll. We talked about the good old happy times together, the poor world economic performance and other friends till 4 PM.

In the evening, my wife and I went to the Vegas club to have salmon dinner. We met a former DBKK colleague there who updated me on the latest human resources reshuffle in DBKK.

After dinner I came back to my computer trying to find out what Streamyx (name of the Broad Band service) can offer and what it could not do. Roughly, I found out it could not access NNTP newsgroup, worked intermittently for my Jaring email, and the download transfer rate varied from 40 to 60 Kbps. I tried to modify my email account to make it work, tried to set up a new account for Streamyx service and tried without success to change my password until after mid night.

Looking back, I followed my set routine fairly well, was somewhat behind schedule in my reading of Philosophy, read a few extra books not in my plan, wrote over 15 articles with one published in the Asia Times, visited China once, made several local trips including one to Sukau by boat from Sandakan, visited my children in West Malaysia twice, attended one retreat in Kundazang, gave 2 talks in stress management and a talk on self managed team, spoke on the Gaya Street pedestrian friendly street as a panel member in a Sabah Society public forum, gave a talk to a Rotary Club on the Silk Road tour, have morning or afternoon tea with a few old friends and talked like many other people in the coffee shops. The books I read included such topics as logic, Buddhism, world crisis and novels. Before I started reading history of Philosophy, I have to read logic and philosophy of language as tools. Besides, I did more gardening, composting, bathing the poor dog that we have neglected all the time, upgraded my PC to Pentium 4(2.4GHz) with Windows XP and LCD monitor, have lunch or dinners with former colleagues from JKR and DBKK, gave some advice here and there, attended the Board of Engineer Presidential Consultative Council meeting, accepted the appointment to the Institut Sinaran Board of Governors and chairman of its Building subcommittee responsible for planning the campus while continued to head the school building subcommittee of KK High School which just embarked on a RM 2.7 million IT Centre project. Accepted an interview by a reporter to talk about my life as a civil servant and how KK should be developed. Life is still meaningful, busy but the difference from working life is it is no longer hectic.


By Hiew, 5/6/2003

Thursday, November 29, 2007

施拯菊的求助信

雋野在上世纪六十年代初在亚庇华侨日报和商报发表中学生习作.那是个青年文艺流行的时代写作的青年很多,报纸的文艺副刊一片朝气.中学毕业后,雋野"消失"了.一直到2003年,他在公职退休下来,才又发表了几篇微型小说.以后又"失踪"了.看来以后他再也写不出什么来了.这里选了几篇旧作,以饷老友.

尚恬夫人

我很彷徨、很无助、很烦恼、请您快快给我想个办法,解决我面对的难题。
我是个家庭主妇,育有四男一女,还要抚养丈夫和一个非法移民所生的两个男孩,而我的丈夫,牟世民,却自 1984年到现在,不再增加我的家用。我的家婆周贞芙,长住我们家,偶然才住到她女儿家去,但不久住,最多住一个月,又回来这里了。每次我吵着要丈夫增加家用,吵到大家脸红耳赤,吵到他不耐烦时,她总是站在她儿子那边,不支持我,生怕给儿子撵走似的。
夫人,我丈夫并不穷。他是个成功的商人,社会活跃分子,教育程度也不低。在80 年代,他和朋友上夜总会,给妈咪小姐的小费,是十元十元地给。我才是那个一路来到了菜市场,要五分一角地和小贩讨价还价的小家子气师奶。

1998 年,经济风暴后一年,我小叔牟居民的公司倒闭了,和他妻子及小孩也搬来同住。夫人,您别以为我家宽阔豪华。我们住的是早期的双层排屋,我们家里唯一豪华先进的,是我丈夫的书房。书房是违章加建的,设备先进,高科技,陈设舒适。其他地方都很颓败。两个“野”孩子,挤在一间不但是违章,而且是草草建成的木板小房。我的十六岁的女儿,还同他的两个小弟弟共用一房,很不方便。

我没职业;但我的工作量比大部分就业者更多。我要在家服侍十二个人!照顾他们的饮食起居,还要常常给他们埋怨。除了女儿,没有人会自动帮我做家务。我家婆早上起得很迟,起身后一面喝着我给她冲的黑咖啡,一面把我丈夫订的报纸从头看到尾。然后出去找她的朋友,一直到晚饭前才回来。我丈夫、小叔和小婶各自上班,到晚上才回来;有时回来吃晚饭,有时不回来吃,却从来不预先交待清楚。八个孩子都上学。他们放学回来,偶然做做家课,此外,不是争看电视,听无线电收音机,玩电脑游戏,就是到厨房搜东西吃,在客厅和后院玩游戏。经几个孩子一闹,家里比战场还乱。到了傍晚,当天下因为小人儿发泄了他们过剩的精力而暂告太平时,屋里屋外,是一片凌乱-杯、碟、玩具、杂志、报纸、脏衣服、鞋、袜、胶袋、果皮、饼屑、垃圾、满地皆是,乱不忍睹。家里老少,乱丢垃圾,把家当作垃圾堆。除了我那爱做义工的女儿,没有人帮我打扫屋子和洗衣服,没人剪院子里的草,没人修花,没人拔除野草,没人通沟渠,没人修灌木丛篱笆。每次向丈夫投诉,他总是反复一句话:为什么不聘个临时工人?
夫人,我去那儿找钱来聘临工呢?丈夫一个月给我1500元,小叔700元,而我家婆心血来潮时也给我一些钱,但什么时候她会给,给多少,大概连她自己也不知道。她一方面要靠我那长居小姑家的家翁,一方面和朋友搞点收入不固定的生意,我又怎能对她的支助有更高的期望呢?我怨她不该站在丈夫一边,支持他不增加家用。每次我软硬兼施,要我丈夫增加家用时,她就会拿出一笔补助金给我。我也不敢太过火,以免失去了她的一笔可观的补助金。
夫人,在1984年,1500元的家用,养五个人,绰绰有余。我还有储蓄,还有余钱为自己买些名牌衣著。现在,十九年后,人口增加了,物价也起了50%,用费的种类也增加了,而令我最难为的,是大家的期望也高了。我实在没办法以每月平均2500元左右,来维持这个十三口的家。我计算过了,要维持1984年的生活水平,每月开销平均会达到4000元。每次和丈夫理论,他总是不理,把预算给他看,他草草过目后,只在鸡蛋里找骨头,家用一样不加。夫人,为了家,我辛苦无所谓,但我得到什么?埋怨、中伤、责难。有的说菜多肉少啦;有的说碟子是塑胶的不卫生啦;把厕纸当脸巾用啦‘衣服是哥哥传下的啦、是大减价时买的过时货啦;屋子十年没重漆啦;水喉漏水啦;屋顶漏啦;院子野草太长啦;厕所的坐板裂了啦;满地垃圾啦;不一而足,听了烦死人啦。垃圾是谁丢的?为什么他们不改变乱丢垃圾的恶习?我小婶还背地里说我“打斧头”呢。我气得差点要找把斧头把她的头劈开来。我“打斧头”?我早在五年前,已把我从前积下的私房钱贴光了,现在我还得和几个朋友“做会”,赶到有急用时,可以标到一笔钱来应急。
去年,家翁送了一套塑胶灯饰,里面有棵小椰子树,我的小男孩好喜欢,我小叔却一弹再弹, 还说我一天到晚喊穷,却把钱花在不实际又丑陋的东西上。我不便多说,只悄悄地把实情告诉丈夫。 我何尝不知道家里较需要甚麽?我比谁都清楚!但我可以告诉家翁不要送给我们灯饰, 送给我们。。。。吗?我若这样做, 以后他会把东西送给小姑而不送给我们,免得碰软钉子。
前年,我表妹送了几盒烟花,孩子们都偷偷地玩得好开心,而我小叔至今还忘不了时不时提醒我那是在烧钞票;他没看见我那小侄儿那次玩得多快乐!难道他要我表妹折现送钱给我们?又不见得他表妹什么的送点甚麽给我们!
我小叔已够无知, 我小婶更无知。她爱到邻居谷静嫂家串门子,回来就爱大赞谷家怎样整洁、堂皇,院子像个小花园。。。接着就以鄙夷的眼光在屋内东张张,西望望,然后摇摇头,再加一上句“这里?哼!”。我说我小婶无知,因为她不知道谷静嫂每月的家用是4000元,不是2500元,更何况,她家只有九口,不是十三口;只有家翁家婆, 没有非法移民的私生子、也没有大伯子小叔子。。。而家翁家婆各月给1000元的家用。还有,古家大小都坚守“物归原处,不丢垃圾”的原则,哪像我那小婶,连换洗的内衣裤,也丢在睡房的地板上,等我这黄脸婆替她收拾。还有一点,我小婶是知道的:古家的院子,是雇承包商每月清理两次的。

几年前,我姐姐提议我做点小生意,由我家婆出本钱。开始,小生意还做得不错,每月多了500元左右的收入。后来我家婆要我和她的朋友合股,把生意扩大。我不懂生意,也没时间亲力亲为,而本钱又是家婆付的,我也就同意了。两年后,生意倒闭,血本无归。我虽然怀疑给欺骗,但也没敢向家婆抱怨,更不敢向丈夫说出我的疑点,免得他看死我妇道人家不懂得做生意!

我妹妹也来给我出主意。她说姐夫既然叫你聘请临时工,你就雇个小承包商来修剪你的篱笆,然后把发票交给他付钱吧。我觉得这点子不错。如果他肯付钱,则别的事,也可照办。于是抱着一线希望,找来了小陈,把篱笆修剪得整整齐齐,把院子里的野草拔了,草坪剪了,花木修剪了,添种了,气象焕然一新,大家看了也很开心,还以为我突然得了神助。但当我把发票交给丈夫时,他的脸马上拉长了,变黑了,一场大雷雨,马上降临。发票他还了,但他也在下个月的家用里扣除了那笔数目。我也不能再忍受了,就和他摊牌,以离婚要胁他。他说我们的宗教不允许我们离婚。我想过自杀,让丈夫另娶一个年轻妻子,这样也许他会增加家用,让我的孩子享有更丰富的生活。但我知道,这注是赌不过的。我怎能把孩子的命运,交到另一个女人手上?而且,我爱我的丈夫,我不愿死。

夫人,我丈夫一点也不穷、不蠢、不吝啬。他每四年换一次轿车,以节省维修费。他把孩子送去念独中。他的办公室,装饰优美豪华,设备先进,连秘书也是年轻貌美,能掌握高科技工具的。他唯一令我不满的,就是不增加家用。为什么呢?也许因为我是施拯菊,他是牟世民吧?

夫人,请给我想个办法吧!

施拯菊上

(隽野 二零零三年三月)

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

First day out of work

How did I feel first day after my retirement?
May be because I have taken three weeks of leave just prior to my retirement after over thirty two years of public service, my first day out of work passed more or less just like any other day in the previous month. I woke up as usual, between 5 and 6 am, meditated for an hour or so, went for one hour of brisk walk, then, as it was my “official” birthday, I have morning tea with a few old friends, who were thoughtful enough to bring a small birthday cake for the occasion. In the afternoon, I have a nap, then practiced singing “Bengawan Solo” for the presentation in the evening when DBKK gave me a farewell dinner which was attended by nearly 100 officers, advisors and staff and finished at midnight. In the farewell dinner, the Mayor and I each gave a speech. As I have given a formal speech during the last Management Committee Meeting on the 3/6/2002, summarizing what I have been telling the officers what they should do in the past 26 months and also a formal short speech during the handing over of duties on the 4/6/2002, thanking everyone and asking everyone to forgive me for any harm that I have caused them as well as urging them to give my successor the same support they have given me, so in the farewell dinner, my speech was very informal, mostly on personal things. I did not write any of these speeches. The idea is for words to come out from my month without weighing them. Let them come from my heart, so to speak. I received a pewter Chinese chess set from DBKK, and three books, one painting, a group photograph, three sculptures and a pewter plaque from the nine departments. It was very thoughtful of them and a present surprise to me. Well, I now think they love me more than I was willing to believe earlier. I took photographs with the presents the next day.
Many people asked me how I felt, expecting me to say either my shoulders are light now that I let go what I have been shouldering or I now have plenty of free time. I didn’t feel much that way. There could be two reasons for that. First, the three-week leave acted as a transition. Secondly, I have handed my duties to a successor whom I have recommended and I promised to advise and assist him for the betterment of the city. But to say I didn’t feel any relieve at all is also not true. After all, now some one else is carrying the heavy burden and I mainly have my own deadline, rather than other’s, to meet. There is definitely that sense of relieve, only it is not very strong.
I intend to shift from one routine to another. I want to have more time for physical exercise and then spend most of my time practicing and teaching Yoga, studying Indian, Chinese and Western Philosophy and do some research into “ alternate” education. My purpose of studying philosophy is to learn what were the answers of the great philosophers of the world in the past about certain big questions and to try to integrate the three major philosophies for the benefit of our future generations. And by “ alternate” education, I mean an educational approach that teach people to look at each and every situation as a totally new one, rather than treating it as similar to past occurrences and react to it habitually. The intention is not to replace the current approach but to treat them on equal terms.
There were only my wife and I in the house most of the time. But we don’t feel lonely. She has plenty of her reading to catch up and I have mine. The World Cup football has diverted some of her time while I still have unfinished commitments, official or otherwise, to gradually ‘ease’ out from. There are still meetings, dinners, functions, talks and seminars to attend in the next few weeks.
I fully realize I must keep myself fully occupied. I never have enough time to do all the things I wanted to do in the last forty over years and I now will become a full time “hobbyist”.

By Hiew 5/6/2002

Friday, November 23, 2007

Jiu Zhai Gou

Jiu(nine) Zhai(villages) Gou(valleys)(1, 1a), an eco-tourism belt in SiChuan, China, is famous for its water scenery. It is agreed by many a tourist that 黄山归来不看山,九寨归来不看水.Translated literally, it means “No more mountain views after seeing Huang Shan; no more water scenery after viewing Jiu Zhai Gou.” That’s how cool Jiu Zhai Gou is.

We visited Jiu Zhai Gou in 2004, according to our tour guide, “ in the awkward season” of late Spring. Snow had partially melted and water was at its low level, trees were just sprouting and twits were still bare and there were no colorful leaves to admire. But still, the views were awesome and unforgettable as you will witness from my photo album(2).

The most quoted summarized description of Jiu Zhai Gou is “水在树间流,树在水中长,花树开在水中央", meaning water flows amid trees, trees grow out of water and trees blossom in the middle of the water. Isn't it picturesque?

Another less quoted but very apt description of Jiu Zhai Gou is “碧水苍山雪峰奇,翠海彩林叠瀑飞,水光山色相辉映,九寨风光世间稀” “Wonderful are the green water and blue mountains and snowy peaks; green lakes and colorful forests are superimposed with fall water splashing; hills are reflected in the water with special sight effect; such are views of Jiu Zhai Gou rare indeed"
Seasoned travelers advised that the best time to visit Jiu Zhai Gou is around October the 10th, when multi-colored leaves are about to shed and water, the essence of Jiu Zhai Gou, is plentiful.

By Hiew

Thursday, November 22, 2007

释驳络

在中国大陆以博客来中译 Blog 者居多.我为什么不随俗?是不是想哗众取寵,故作惊人状?

按, Blog 乃 Weblog 之缩写, 牛津大辞典 weblog 条说: A frequently updated web site consisting of personal observations, excerpts from other sources, etc., typically run by a single person, and usually with hyperlinks to other sites; an online journal or diary. 含有在线的公开日记的意思.日记本来是记来自己看的,不存心公开的,但是文人/名人写日记又常常存有有朝一日要自己或死后由他人把它公开的意愿.日记一存心公开,写起来就不怎么坦诚了.Blog 如果局限在日记的范畴内,就嫌有点碍手碍脚,不怎么施展得开来.我看过一些 blog, 多超越了一般日记的范畴,写来得心应手,好生痛快.我们年过花甲,仿效时人写 blog, 难免有跟潮流之嫌.但又自以为已使用邮电十几年,几乎天天上网,看来也还不算沾不到 blog 的边, 写写也无伤大雅. 写什么呢?篇头语说了:发表发表意见,与亲友分享心意与照片.子女都忙於工作或子女,但都因公几乎天天上网,也写blog , 故以 blog 来联系,虽非上策,也不失为中策了.

好了.既要分享,就必须联络;既发表意见,就得预备听不同意见,有异意了,就难免要辩论.所以,驳有二义,一曰驳接,二为辩驳.在我,驳接有两个较鲜明的意象,一为驳船,二为植物接枝;两者都含驳接义.辩驳义的意象,则有驳觜,最是活泼.

络就不必多释了. 它含联络义,也满足音译要求.就这么简单.

博有广义赌义.博太广了,太空了,抓不准,真实感不强.还是驳较有把握.就博他一把吧;谁知道,也许赌胜了,以后会有很多人跟着採用呢?
聊博一笑.

邱释

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Three Gorges Dam

In late September 2007, the temperature in Chongqing (重庆) was still as high as 30 degree Celsius. As first time tourists in Chongqing, we have to struggle with the heat and humidity of the Sichuan (四川) Basin[1, 1a] while trying to enjoy ourselves amongst the famous local leisure seekers. The local people, many of whom are the Hakka (客家)[2, 2a], the Guest people, migrated from the Henan(河南)Province in batches of exodus in the past 2000 years or so, spend lots of their time in the shady parks, dancing, singing and playing games or sipping green tea while chitchatting. In a city of millions of residents, it is rare to see people who are not in a hurry; who have the admirable leisurely gait, delightful serenity, carefree style and calm composure of the villagers despite that they live in a big city and have to face stiff competition.

Sichuan is famous for its hot dishes. Yuan Yang Huo Guo(鸳鸯火锅)[3, 3a, 3b] is its representative and a must-try. It consists of a steam boat with two compartments, one filled with ordinary soup and the other with the red-colored hot chili and pepper soup into which diners dip their raw/cooked food to be cooked/warmed. The dish, of course, is delicious but hot, very hot. After a meal, most unaccustomed tongues will be numb and some of the diners might have stomach upset. But you have really not eaten Sichuan food if you have not tried the Yan Yang Huo Guo steamboat when you are in Sichuan.

From Chongqing we took a cruise down the Changjiang (长江)[4, 4a] to Yichang (宜昌), spending 3 nights on boat and alighting for sight-seeing along the way at small towns, including the famous Gui Men(夔门)[ 5a] and an old town Baidi Cheng[ 5ia]. Our main objective was to see the 2,309 meter long Da Ba(大坝), the Three Gorges Main Dam[6, 6a], which is the largest multipurpose dam ever undertaken by mankind till date. It is a controversial project the main benefits of which include flood mitigation, hydro-electric power generation and navigation and the down-sides include ecological disturbance, catastrophic consequence of dam failure for whatever cause, relocation of more than a million residents in the reservoir areas, submerging of cultural heritage sites. But to the Chinese Government, the benefits derived from flood mitigation and hydropower generation over shadowed all other things, including its US$25 billion formidable cost [7, 7a]. Without the Dam, the cost of damage to property by a 100 year recurrent flood is colossal, not to mention loss of human lives.
The designed maximum level of the reservoir is 185m AMSL and normal water level is 175m while the level now is controlled at 110m pending on more local residents to be relocated and reservoir bed to be prepared. The maximum reservoir capacity is 39.3 billion cubic meters, which was designed to cope with a 100 year recurrent flood volume of 22.1 billion cubic meters at water level of 175 m; electricity generation capacity 18.2 GW, navigational capacity is doubled. This is to say that the dam can hold back the amount of water enough to flood parts of the Hubei, Hunan, Jiangxi, Jingsu and Zhijiang Province downstream with a total population of 15 million and arable area of 150 square kilometers; produce as much electricity as 20 large nuclear power units[7i] of the day supplying about 4% of China’s total power requirement now and bring 20 thousand ton barges right up to Chongqing city at the confluence of the Changjiang and Jialingjiang.

The water in the Changjiang was turbid and looked like teh tarik [8] during our tour but the guide was quick to point out that the turbidity varies seasonally. In Xiao San Xia[9a], where the water is from undeveloped catchment, sure enough, it was crystal clear. The well known shallows and the rapids in the Three Gorges and the job of the Qianfu (haulers) [10a] are the things of historical and academic interest only now. The mountains, which make a gorge a gorge, along this stretch of Changjiang are awesome. Among them the Wunu Peak is the most famous and much written about. To describe them here is like reinventing the wheel with a crude product; I choose instead to show you photos and quotes you some famous poems [11, 11a].
The 5-stages dual-track ship locks [12, 12a] enable 10,000-toners to navigate pass the Dam, each stage raising/lowering the ships by some 20 meters vertically. The design principle is simple and the energy resource is flowing river water, but the technology to put the design in place is innovative and requires a break through. The design and construction of the main gates, each weighing 850 tons and the size of 2 basket ball courts, [13, 13a] stretch technology beyond the existing limits. For ships to be lowered, water level in the first upstream lock is drained down by 20 meters or so to match the water level of the adjoining lock so that the ships can move into it after the gate separating the 2 locks is open. By repeating the same process, the ships are lowered stage by stage until the water level in the downstream most lock matches downstream water level for the ships to leave the locks. For ships to navigate upstream a similar process is used, this time, water is let into the first downstream lock of the other set of locks to raise its level to match the level in the next lock. So simple and yet so technologically demanding in its construction.

The ship locks are for bigger ships which will take about 3 to 4 hours to go through the lock which is considered time consuming. Giant ship lifts [14, 14a] are being planed to carry an entire smaller ship of up to 3000 tons up and down in much shorter time intervals(45 minutes).

The cruise trip is an eye opener to a project which will bring tremendous benefits and yet not without its catastrophic threat and equally serious compromise, apart from providing sight seeing of the awesome views of the famous Changjiang Three Gorges after it was dammed up.

View some photos taken during this trip from my Facebook album


Submitted by Hiew

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

游贵州

贵州省在中国西南部,北邻四川,东接广西,南通云南,短称黔。游贵州前,我对贵州所知的,只限于茅台酒、梯田、黄果树瀑布和黔驴技穷。
到了贵州省会贵阳,地陪冉曦告诉我们,贵州以一棵树、一瓶酒和一栋楼最出名。黄果树瀑布、茅台酒和遵义会议会址是也。遵义会议在中国共产党和中国近代史上很重要,它首次决定了毛泽东对中国共产党的领导权和中共革命的方向。
中国近年大事开发大西北部,贵州是目标之一。贵州地属云贵高原,处于亚热带区,森林茂盛,河流湍急,河水澄澈。适于发展水力发电和生态旅游业。贵州聚居了很多少数民族,也是发展旅游业的强点。中国政府这十多年来也正朝着这方向开发贵州,步划很快,电力已可外输。除了闻名的黄果树瀑布外,许多新旅游景点也在快速发展中,包括青岩古镇, 镇远古城,(水旁)舞阳河....拉亚瀑布, 68级瀑布,小七孔洞,大七孔洞, 水各大寨.

黄果树瀑布除了壮观雄伟之外,怀有一个特点: 水帘洞.你可以在瀑布的后面步行而过,并从好几个山洞看到水帘.不是一个水帘洞,而是好几个.

邱记